RAWESS · Ingredient Knowledge
Botanical Marker Assay vs Extract Ratio
A 10:1 extract ratio and a named-marker percentage answer different questions; compare identity and analytical basis before choosing a botanical ingredient.
Define what the number describes
Request the botanical name, plant part, extraction process and full supplied composition. An extract ratio describes a relationship between starting plant material and extract under a stated convention; it does not, by itself, specify the concentration of a named compound. Ask whether the figure refers to native extract or a preparation with added carrier.
Match markers and methods
Identify the exact marker or marker group, method and reporting basis. EGCG, total catechins and total polyphenols are different results. For Centella, a total triterpene fraction is not automatically the amount of madecassoside. For rosemary, specify which constituents the assay measures. Compare like methods and basis; ask the lab how water content and carriers affect the reported value.
Build acceptance criteria for the supplied material
Use identity and marker testing alongside the risk-based contaminant checks selected by your quality team. Evaluate color, odor, dispersion and compatibility in the finished formula. Keep the actual lot COA and approved reference sample so a later supplier or process change can be assessed against the same criteria. Do not infer cosmetic efficacy from an assay percentage alone.
Compare the approaches
| Approach | What to check |
|---|---|
| Extract ratio | Describes an input-to-extract relationship; requires a definition of native extract and carrier basis. |
| Named-marker assay | Reports a defined constituent under a stated method and basis; requires identity and method details. |
Neither measure alone describes the complete composition or proves equivalent performance.
Apply the distinction to a sample brief
Compare a green tea offer by asking whether its stated percentage is EGCG or a wider catechin fraction. Compare a licorice offer by checking glabridin identity and carrier rather than matching only a plant name. These questions lead to different specifications and sample-screening plans.
Relevant ingredient specifications
Use these grade pages to define the documents and sample checks for the materials in your brief. They are examples for evaluation, not a ready-made formula.
Next steps and supporting guides
Agree the test and acceptance criteria before ordering a sample. Request the current specification, lot COA, SDS and TDS for the offered grade.
Download the relevant English product PDF · Prepare the purchasing brief · Discuss a grade and sample